Simply put, glycation occurs when proteins, such as collagen and elastin, cross-link with sugar molecules (glucose or fructose) without the controlled action of an enzyme. This non-enzymatic process, catalyzed in the presence of heat, is also known as the Maillard reaction and is responsible for the browning of cooked foods. Likewise, brown spots on the skin and on internal organs are good indicators of glycation accumulation. Recent studies show that these age spots are the first warning signs of degenerative disease progression. Over time, the sugar molecule bound to the glycated protein is chemically modified, forming molecular structures called Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs). AGEs formation is harmful to the body because it changes the structure of the protein so that the protein can no longer perform its proper function.
As AGEs build up they reduce the flexibility, elasticity, and functionality of these proteins. On the skin, AGEs perpetuate cell death and increase the death rate of fibroblasts. While this is a natural phenomenon that rids the body of damaged and dying cells, AGEs can accelerate cell death and kill healthy proteins. Therefore, glycation compromises the structure of the skin by preventing collagen and elastin proteins from functioning properly and then damaging the intracellular matrix that forms the structure of the skin. These two processes contribute to the deterioration of collagen and elastin, the thinning of the skin, the production of wrinkles and the loss of skin tone. In addition, glycation stimulates inflammatory cytokins-IL-6, TNFα, making the skin appear rough, blemished, and inflamed.
According to Dr. Peter Pugliese, several studies suggest that certain ingredients such as carnosine and aminoguanidine may inhibit glycation by preventing the course of the Maillaird reaction. Carnosine, a di-peptide antioxidant that mimics the structure of Vitamin E, seems to prevent the protein and sugar molecules from entering into the Maillard reaction. By bonding with proteins and carbonylated molecules, carnosine inhibits the potential cross-linking of glycated materials. Carnosine also protects healthy proteins from being damaged by AGEs already accumulated.
Aminoguanidine is another active that is reported to minimize glycation by inhibiting the formation and cross-linking of AGEs. Clinical studies show that aminoguanidine slows the progression of certain diseases such as diabetic kidney disease. Although glycation inhibitors are still being researched, active measures can be taken to slow and reduce the negative effects of glycation. First, because glycation is perpetuated by heat, wearing sunscreen, limiting the amount of direct contact with UV rays, and avoiding the eating food cooked at high temperatures can help fight the effects of glycation. Also, cutting down on sugar (including fruit) in your diet limits the glucose or fructose that can bind to proteins and reduces the cross-linking that leads to AGEs. Finally, supplementing your diet with carnosine and using skincare products containing carnosine and aminoguanidine can help reduce the effects of glycation in your body.
SESHA SKIN THERAPY offers the protection of carnosine in its Elixir Day Repair and in the new CLINICAL Protect/Repair – 30 Day Emulsion. The CLINICAL line also features Advanced Antioxidant Cream with the dual benefits of carnosine and aminoguanidine.
